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Nov 14, 2023

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A korowai for a colleague who died. Photo / Supplied

A Māori wāhine at one of the country's largest woollen carpet exporters is utilising her skill in traditional raranga (weaving) to turn next-generation wool yarns into original artworks.

Sheryn Rerekura, a textile worker at Bremworth, spent two years completing a diploma in traditional Māori weaving at Te Wānanga o Aotearoa, before combining her passions for sustainability and art.

The wool used in the production of the artworks is sourced from Bremworth's research and development division - which is developing next-generation yarns for the export and domestic carpet markets.

Already her work is displayed prominently in the company's premises in the form of wall hangings, decorative pieces and rugs.

Rerekura says despite the more contemporary use of wool in some of her pieces she upholds the age-old process of karakia and tikanga before she starts.

"I say a karakia before I begin the work to give thanks and show respect for the tāonga of wool and the process of raranga. I also say a prayer when I have finished for the safety of the person I am giving it to."

Rerekura says her workmates have been inspired to learn the traditional artform and the yarn is an excellent medium for beginners to use.

"One of the benefits of working with wool over harakeke is the ability to start immediately and results can be seen quite quickly.

"It's completely different with harakeke. When I am working with flax I will travel to Pipiriki to harvest it from my uncle's house twice a year. There is a huge amount of prepping involved, from cutting the flax, to drying it and preparing the feathers, it is also a much more difficult fibre to work with than wool.

"It's really important to prepare the flax well, if you don't you’ll see it in the piece you’ve created. Wool is much more forgiving but you do have to make sure you have the tension right so you don't push it too close together and ruin the pattern," she says.

Rerekura says whether working with wool or harakeke the experience is deeply moving.

"I am often handling the piece for months at a time and my hands are all over it on every row. I can get a bit emotional when it's time to give it away and there are tears, they are happy tears though because I’ve put everything into it I can."

Along with her artworks Rerekura weaves traditional korowai and more recently created a beautiful wool cloak for a young workmate who had died.

Rerekura used yarn collected from the factory to create the personal gift with a whai (stingray) motif which symbolises a kaitiaki (protector).

Rerekura does not sell any of her work but prefers to offer it as a koha, and along with teaching her colleagues, many have also put in their own requests for pieces from her.

"I have also shared some of my wool with my classmates from Te Wānanga o Aotearoa many of them are Pākehā and find it easier to begin with wool," she says.

Andrew Karl, general manager of yarn plants for Bremworth, says for their team of 450 workers that produce thousands of metres of carpet, the creative influence provided by their colleague has bought them closer together.

"We cannot overstate the positive impact of tikanga Māori and Sheryn's patience in teaching others who have been inspired by her work.

"It's wonderful to see the yarn being used to create something so beautiful and powerful and we are immensely proud of Sheryn.

"The korowai she made for one of our staff members who passed on was incredibly special and we have been talking about having Sheryn create one for our staff to use for ceremonial purposes like graduations and other special events."

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